A Sailing Adventure...
       Last Updated: 2017-08-21
  

 

                         Vilanculos to Madagascar - Part 2
                                        
                Bassas to Barren Islands to Mahajanga
 

 

Wednesday 1st September 2010 – Friday 3rd September 2010
So we sailed into the dark night, unable to even have a backward final glance at the beautiful Bassas. She had just reminded us of where we were and how quickly things can change (actually I think the lesson was more for me (Miss carefree)), than for Kevin.
After about an hour the seas smoothed out and we put the main sail up, on 1 reef and used 1 motor to assist us, as the wind was 10 knots but from the NE. We needed to be somewhat conservative on our fuel as the next fill up was only available in Mahajanga and we still had many miles to go.
We downloaded the weather from the net, to update the MaxSea software, so that we would have the prediction, minute by minute for the next 3 days. The current prediction showed a very strong favourable current, just North of our planned route. This current would give us an extra 2 knots of speed. We decided to change course to take advantage of the current and because the winds were predicted to blow in a more favourable direction than the original routing. 
Genoa and Main out, wind at 15 knots and flat seas we continued on the new course. For  the next 12 hours, we slept and sailed, in 3 hour shifts. It was blissful as there were no noisy motors going, the average speed was 7.8 knots per hour, the sea was silky smooth and flat, it was a warm 28 degrees and the flying fish kept landing on the boat to keep us entertained. All free, courtesy of Mother Nature. There were absolutely no obstacles to look out for on route as we were slap bang in the middle of the channel going North.
We made good time and then gradually changed our heading back towards Barren Islands. It was actually so smooth that I was able to write and publish the previous newsletter to the net, (without getting sea-sick and usually virtually impossible) right there from the middle of nowhere.
We had not seen any other boats since leaving Bazaruto, so on Friday at 16h00, whilst I was sitting very comfortably on the deck, in the shade of the sail, on my beanbag chair, reading ‘Twilight’ (thanks V, great prezzy!), I looked up and saw a boat on the horizon. It looked rather large and was approaching rapidly. The radar AIS indicated that she was ‘unidentified’ (it usually gives the ships name) travelling at 30 knots! Wow that’s fast for a boat ! It looked like she was heading directly for us, and we discussed what to do about it. Could it be pirates? So low down from Somalia? An illegal fishing trawler ?
Then the radio call came on channel 16 (ships use a different frequency than aeroplanes) in a very French accent (but perfect English). “This is the Madagascan Ocean Patrol Police, will the vessel travelling at 6 knots in a easterly direction, please Identify yourself.”   Kevin, answered the radio call and supplied all the information about when and where we came from, where we were going to, number of persons on board, and confirmation of our application for a cruising permit.   
Formalities out of the way, and they were soon having a big chat about Bassas, the weather, piracy and Madagascar. The gentleman, was exceptionally courteous and friendly. They were looking for a big fishing trawler that had been reported, fishing illegally, and wanted to know if we had seen any boats between Bassas and here. Apparently they have a lot of oriental vessels, sneaking in under the radar to plunder their seas and it is becoming a constant problem to the Madagascan Economy.
Within minutes they were 200 meters from us, careful not to disturb our fishing lines. They slowed down to inspect us through their binoculars (they even have a telescope mounted in their upper deck). The boat was in excellent condition (I didn’t think a country as poor as Madagascar could afford such fancy ocean surveillance vessels) and well manned. Satisfied that we were, who we said we were, he bade us bon voyage and fair winds, and left, showing off how quickly he could get to top speed! Show-off! He left in the opposite direction, as to when he came, eliminating our covered route, on his quest to find the illegal trawler.
About 1 hour later we heard him on the radio, calling the unidentified trawler, and then asking if they understood English. They didn’t respond so we don’t know the outcome. Pity, we could have had our own Madagascan Vice show! No juice.
The later it got the more the wind increased, but straight on Catatude’s nose, so all the sails came down and eventually we were just motoring, with wind and current against us. We were pushing 4 knots and it felt like an uphill struggle. Fortunately the seas were still relatively flat.
Saturday 4th September 2010
It was early morning and with 2,8 miles to go we could see the sea breaking on the horizon and wondered if the gap entrance between the two Islands, Nosy Lava and Nosy Andrano was similar to the gap between Benguerra and Bazaruto (Nosy means Island).
As we edged closer we could see the breakers were in front of each island and the gap was a wide passage in between. Then, as bad timing would have it, the fishing rod went zingggg. It was a nice sized king Mackerel, which Kev kept. It was the first bite since we had left Bassas!
We passed through the gap, with the radar on (the islands are off on all the charts, Maxsea, Garmin Navionics and Navnet). The radar is such a comforting feature because it shows where the breaking waves are, as well as where the actual land mass really is. It takes some practice to ignore the picture of the land on the screen and just to go by the red radar image instead.
We passed Nosy Lava on our right, on our way in, and there seemed to be lots of activity and civilization on the island as well as many Pirogues (their wooden canoes) on the shoreline.
It was 9 am on Saturday and we had arrived in Madagascar!
We anchored on the Eastern side of Nosy Andrano, over sand & coral, in 13m of water. The waters were beautifully clear and blue. Yay, we had made the crossing and it was a breeze!
Kev called my Dad, and confirmed that we had arrived, were safe and in high spirits. We did some cleaning up, showered, slept and then swam in the sea to cool down. It was 31 degrees and hot, hot, hot. The sea was a pleasant 27 degrees.
We lowered Landy and tendered to the shore, armed with suckers, caps and a packet of sugar.
We were warmly welcomed (in broken English) by Dado and his sister Henriette and her two small kids. We exchanged pleasantries, did the introductions and gave our gifts which the children really appreciated.
They were quite keen to show us around their camp and invited us to follow them. As we walked up the beach the overwhelming stench of rotten fish filled the air. Lovely, I thought. Hadn’t we just left smoggy Joburg for the fresh air ? What we were about to see was an absolute shocker.
The village huts were small thatch tent shaped structures, there was an eating area where a table and benches were erected, a large wooden table with a few dried octopus, a pot of rice and some provisions on it, a fireplace in the centre and rows and rows of salted drying fish suspended everywhere.
To the right was a salting plant where the fish is cleaned, kept in salt for a few days then hung out to dry. There was even a huge turtle shell being used as a bowl. I recognised some of the fish as batfish, potato bass, milk sharks, morays, blue fin rays, wrasses, sea cucumbers etc. Actually I was surprised at the size of some of the fish but the variety floored me.
Kev, kept giving me the “I know you are not impressed but please, don’t say anything”, look. I really had to work hard at not showing my displeasure. I took as many photos as I could, without seeming too keen to put everything on film.
It was, in essence, a fish drying factory of sorts. All this hidden beneath the trees, out of sight! This was not the idyllic island life I had expected to find here.
After the tour, Dado offered us some coffee and explained that he was from the Vezo Tribe, which are indigenous coastal migration fishermen, and that they semi-migrate from fishing area to fishing area with their families, in their pirogues, for up to 6 months at a time. They have been a migratory tribe for over 2000 years, with firm spiritual beliefs and customs based around a seafaring existence. Their catch, many years ago was primary for self sustainability but is now primarily for the Asian market.
They seemed very happy to have company and were very forthcoming with information and answers to all our questions (and did I ask many questions!).
As we were preparing to leave Dado asked if it was possible to make him some fresh drinking water on the boat. Kev agreed and he gave us two 20l water cans to fill.  He also asked for clothes, fishing hooks and fishing gut. He had a very humorous demeanour, constantly smiling and laughing and was not pushy or demanding like the Mozambican locals at all. He offered to fetch his water, from us in the morning.
We got back to Catatude just after sunset at 5pm. Whoa, what a day? Our first day in Madagascar and such an information overload. I couldn’t wait  to get onto the net to read up about these Vezo fishermen.
While Kev made them water, I surfed and read up on their history and background. A very fascinating read! I now understand their ways and customs and view their cause and plight from a different perspective.  All their information is at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vezo_people .
 
Sunday 5th September 2010
 
Our day started at 7h30 on 27deg. Its going to be another scorcher.  
Dado came to collect his water, and we watched how skilfully he approached us against the wind and current, in his pirogue, sail up making it look effortless.  He was extremely grateful for the water and was particularly careful nor to let his boat bash against ours. Kev felt sorry for the family and gave tinned food, more sweets for the kids, powder milk, sugar,  biscuits & jam. I just know we are going to be giving every family we meet along the way, a similar hamper!
This morning we did our route planning for the next section, of our sail to Mahajanga, and then just after lunch we upped anchor and motored to our next anchorage Nosy Androtara which was 11 miles further North.
On route we had 5 fish ‘episodes’ with King mackerel, Kawakawa and a king fish. The fish were all to big to keep so we released them.
We anchored at Nosy Androtara, on the East side over sand, in 8m, 200m off the beach where there is a steep rise to shore and a coral bank 160m offshore. The snorkelling/ diving looks very good here as the water is as clear as glass. We went ashore on Landy as there was only about 2 hours of daylight left.
The Island has beautiful soft golden sea sand and is littered with driftwood, shells, large chunks of coral, and washed up soft corals and reeds. On the Western side there is a very large community of Vezo fisherman but from the East, where we were, you don’t even know they are there. We initially though the island was uninhabited and only saw the inhabitants the following morning when we left the island. They are a very peaceful clan and won’t come to disturb you or visit you.
We spent some time on this beautiful beach having a sun downer, glass of wine, as the sun started to set.
The tide was going out and we decided to get back before dark.  I packed up all our goodies into the dry bag, especially my camera, and walked back to Landy. She was high and dry and we turned her, dragged her down into the waterline and faced her into the waves. Now we had to wait for a lull in the wave sets so that we could get her into deep enough water to let down the motor and start her. For Kev that’s about knee height but for me that’s about waist high. Anyway, our gap came and we were floating. Kev started the motor and as we were about to go, this monster wave came from nowhere and fluck (past tense of flick) me completely out of the boat and dunked me into the sea. While still underwater my first reaction – my sunglasses that were perched on my head, where are they? got them, then where’s Kevin and Landy?. They had been washed back onto the shore, the motor still running. Now I just knew I hadn’t done anything  too klutsy for too long and it was just waiting in the wings. Instead of sitting with my legs inside the boat, I jumped on with them hanging outside the boat, so when the wave came I was a sitting duck! The walk back to shore, through the water was on huge rounded smooth rocks that were as slippery as hell. I slipped and slid my way back to shore. Drenched, dripping with wounds on my ankle bones, I stepped onto the beach and took stock of the situation. I hadn’t seen these rocks because when we arrived it was high tide and they were underwater.
Take two was perfectly timed, and within a minute we were on the water heading back to Catatude.
I was shivering, I was so cold and very grateful for a nice warm shower. Needless to say at dinner we had a good laugh about it. So many lessons to learn! and I seem to be paying the highest price, then again me and ridiculously embarrassing water incidents go back a long, long way.
Monday 6th September 2010
We woke to a low tide, Catatude was in 4 meters of clear blue water, and land seemed a lot closer than when we anchored, with so much more land exposed.   It was 28 degrees already and after breakfast we did a quick cleanup, some maintenance chores and then prepared to move on to our next anchorage, Nosy Mavony.
It was 12h15 and as there was no wind whatsoever so we motored to Nosy Mavony. On route we had 3 fish encounters  – 2 king fish & 1 waka-waka (its called kava-kava but I keep calling it waka-waka?). The one kingfish was ideal for keeping so he was brought in and whilst Kevin was dangling him over the side by his tail (he was already dead) to drain the blood , he suddenly came to life and with one quick flick of his powerful tail, released himself out of Kev’s grasp and dived gracefully back into the sea and swam down into the deep. It all happened so quickly, Kev was left dismayed and shocked. So we have a photo of him, but we don’t actually have him!.
The other King fish was sneaky enough to wait until he got to about a meter from the boat before swimming a zig zag and shaking off the lure. They seem to like the purple and green lure.
Before Nosy Mavony is insight there are 2 unchartered reefs/sandbanks in the middle of the sea, across our path, which we had to pass. Fortunately, it was still a rising  tide and we were able to see the waves break and so zig zag around them. The radar painted them on the screen, but only the areas above sea-level. They are approximately ½ mile long by a meter wide. This is absolutely not a passage to undertake at night, and I was very pleased that we had decided to travel, where possible, by day and anchor by night. All the barren islands have long sand spits/shallow reefs extending from them, which are hidden at high tide.
We dropped anchor at the eastern side of Nosy Mavony, in a strong current flowing in an easterly direction. After some discussion, we then agreed to re- anchor on the North Eastern side which offered better protection and less current. But I felt it was,  just, not quite right, so we lifted the anchor once again, for the third time, and re-anchored a little bit closer to the shore in shallower waters in an even more protected area. Kev was not very impressed about all the moves, but you know, as in camping, you have to stop in the exact right place! Ha-ha – I think all men have been through this scenario of the lady wanting the exact right place! Its just, got to be right. Anyway, I was happy, so Kev was happy and we prepared to go onto the island which appeared deserted.
Landy took us ashore and we put the sand anchor around a rock as the shore was quite steep, and we didn’t want Landy washed out to sea. 
It was a beautiful lush green Island devoid of trees with green flat lying scrub on the top section with pristine white beaches, covered in shells, coral bits and other soft sponges and corals completely surrounding it. And it was deserted.  Just like in the movies!
As we walked along the beach we saw remnants of a fire braai with empty egg shells. Then we saw the trail of a Turtle from the sea, up the beach to the top sand ridge where the turtle nest was. Then another and another. Wow, this was like being back at Tsonga beach lodge in SA where we saw the turtles laying eggs on the beach.
We continuing our walk along the beach, around the island, until we got to the eastern side, where we saw the remnants of a Vezo fishing camp where many, many turtle carapaces were evident as well as littered remains of sun bleached bones . My heart sank as I recalled reading the documentation of how important the sea turtle was to the Vezo clan, and a prized catch.
The Vezo have a long history of subsistence turtle exploitation and associated cultural traditions. By local law, turtles are protected under Decree 24 passed in 1923, but this law has seldom been enforced. The low reproductive potential and delayed sexual maturity of turtles make all species unsuitable for intensive harvest. Even as far back as the early twentieth century, it has been reported that turtles play an important role to Malagasy fisheries. There has been a decline in numbers of the hawksbill turtle and the disappearance of nesting populations. The raiding of the turtle nests and hunting for the meat and carapaces are believed to be the fundamental causes of decline for four of the five species in the region.
They have a Fady (superstitious belief) where turtle shrines called Fomba are erected, to give thanks for catching shark and turtle. The ceremony is called Takasy. The turtle Fomba is where all turtles are killed. The carapaces are used to cook the turtle meat and retain the blood, as it is strictly taboo to spill the turtle’s blood on the sand. The carapaces are kept at the shrine and the spears used to catch the turtles are also kept, with the head of the turtle speared through the mouth. The heads are raised on spears surrounding the Fomba amid the carapaces of former kills kept in the centre of the shrine.
There was a footpath from the camp up the hill and we followed the trail. It lead to the higher ground where we had a wonderful view of this side of the island overlooking the deserted fishing camp. The straw huts were still in place and even a large pirogue.
We traversed across the top, on yet another footpath and arrived at the highest point of the Island. There in a clearing made in the centre of the greenery was a circular patch of sea sand, perfectly smoothed out, with half clam shells laid down in rows, filled with ash, many plastic water bottles all open and laid facing North, a metal bowl filled with coins as well as several notes of Madagascan Ariary  (their currency). It took a while for us to realize that it was a shrine.
This place was getting eerier by the minute. We decided to head back to Landy as we had seen enough for one day. The beauty and the beast! OK, yes, so it was getting a little too spooky for my likings.
We walked back to Landy on a footpath leading directly down from the shrine and saw a pile of fishing nets all rolled up, stacked and piled just after the waterline – another message from the Vezo to their gods!
Whoa, lets get out of here. As we tendered back, I was grateful that we had moved anchor position, as our first anchor drop was directly in line with the shrine on the hill and the nets placed on the beach.   I’m not superstitious but this was a little to close for comfort.
 The Sea is a nice and warm 26 degrees but the anchorage was very rolly on change of tide. Once back onboard we had dinner, watched an episode of Prison Break and totally forgot about the Fady on the hill.
Tuesday 7th September 2010
At 06h00 we moved to our next anchorage, Nosy Vao 70 miles North. We went via Nosy Marify, so that we could cover as many islands as possible and it was on route anyway.
With no wind we motored to Nosy Marify, which is a low lying flat sandbank with reef stretching 500m to the south and 500m to the North of the island, which is only visible at low tide. There is no real anchorage of any value at this island but it had a huge Vezo fishing camp on this island, the biggest we had seen yet and the waterline goes to within a meter of their huts.
From Nosy Marify, with the screecher up, we sailed at 9 knots and arrived at Nosy Vao at 16h00 averaging 8.75 knots per hour. We had the wind, and swell from behind, which was great. The seas were flat but not smooth. It was a very relaxing day.
We arrived at Nosy Vao to find an even bigger Vezo camp on this Island.  Damn, I’m so over these Vezo camps now!
We anchored in 22m over sand/coral rubble on the Northern side. We were well protected by the wind which came from the south but the swell and tide made for a really rolly anchorage. The tide sets here at about 2 knots. So it was an evening of rock n roll!
Wednesday 8th September 2010
Nosy Chesterfield was 71 miles away and we left at 7am, and predicted that at 6 knots we would be there at 18h30.
Early mornings are usually calm with little wind, so we motored on 1 motor getting 5 knots then we put the Screecher up at 11h00 when the wind picked up and we were sailing at 8/9 knots. We had a following sea which also helped. (when the sea swells are behind you and gently help you forward).
We tried our hand at making Goujons for lunch. Kev (Pedro), your right, they are easy and delicious, especially with fresh fish. I gave your instructions and Kev made them.
We arrived at Nosy Chesterfield at 17h00, the island had only two people on it, who waved at us as we came into view. It looked like they were the last on the island and that the rest of the Vezo had just moved on earlier that day.
The dreaded Cap St Andre (the horn of Madagascar and their version of Cape Point) lay ahead of us, and is notorious for rough seas so we decided to rather use the current  good conditions, and to skip the sleep over at Nosy Chesterfield and to continue round the Cap to Bali Bay.
So night sailing once again, I had butterflies, as on the charts the depths vary from 3 to 50 to 14 to 5 meters all mixed, in patches. This makes for a very confused rough sea and thus far we had only really been in open ocean waters that gradually shallow or deepen. There is also alot of traffic to look our for. (Yes, not only you guys in Joburg have that problem!) But the traffic here, have no lights and no radar reflectors (the dow’s). So basically if you don’t see them, you will not know they are there. Then to add to it there’s the general sprinkle of shipwrecks to look out for.
Catatude did her usual Macarena dance to the very close medium swells at sea which meant we were jostled about.  The Maxsea trail shows how we zig zag sailed but Catatude and Gabriel (our autopilot) didn’t miss a beat and our passage around Cap St Andre was not too bad at all!  It seems that our weather prediction abilities, are improving by the day. We have had no extreme weather since leaving Mozambique and believe me I am not complaining. 
Thurs/Friday 9th & 10th September 2010
We did our shift thing through the night without incident and arrived in Baly bay at 7am. It was a very hot 34 degrees and Catatude had a thorough deck wash, as the layer of salt on her was very thick, as well as the stiff remnants of the many, many  flying fish that landed on our deck. We had a snooze, a clean-up and suddenly got cell signal again, but only edge 1 bar.
The anchor spot we chose was very calm with a huge brilliant white beach stretched out from left to right in front of us. It was very well protected.
We gave our scoops a good scrub as the barnacles were already starting to grow and that’s when we noticed that a rather large remora was attached to our hull and had probably been cruising with us for a few days. Little sneak, he had hitched a ride. I made sure to feed him often.
I also had to do the whole Bosun’s chair thing again (the nappy bag that you sit in, to be winched to the top of the mast). I’m not exactly sure, why I had to go up but anyway it didn’t matter. I went up and did as I was instructed, took some pics and came down again. It’s not so bad, perhaps because I’m a lightweight?
Terra Firma was calling and we headed off to the beach in Landy, because Lexy was still securely tied up on the deck and it was just easier. The remnants of a village were evident and as we strolled down the beach we saw some coconut trees and went to see if any were ready. Kev found two which we took to the tender. 
Then we came across a round paint tin lid (the big 25l size) which was white with hand painted text in red : National Parc, Tsy Azo Idirano. We discussed long and hard, whether it meant no entry, no littering, no open fires, beware of wild animals or no settlements. Turns out, it means can be sustained. We felt bad about taking the coconuts from the national park but they were already in the tender which was way up the beach at this stage, and it was too far to return them. So we kept them (and they were delicious).
We spent the evening and the next day recovering from our overnight sail whilst watching the Fish eagles, and kingfishers. It was like being in the kruger but just a marine version of Kruger. There is definitely, much nature to view and admire here. It is a very calm, peaceful place with lots of birdcalls and lots of fish. If we ever visit here again, we are going to try to get legal access into the park, to see the giant tortoises, lemurs, chameleons etc
It was also the first time we had come across Razor clams. They are scattered along the beach, in the sea grass just visible at low tide. They are vicious little things that could cut your tender to bits, never mind feet. Each clam has about 20 little razor sharp blades on its shell and they are very well camouflaged. We have now made a rule that we will always have our coral shoes in the tender, incase we need to wade through shallows or rocks. We have used them alot, especially at Bassas and this is one essential for cruising this area.
When Kev was fishing from the boat, our little pet Ramora took his bait on the line, and we had to work hard to save him, but we did and he didn't hang around with us any longer.
Saturday/Sunday 11th/12th  September 2010
Whilst having early morning coffee, we saw some dugongs, swimming close by in the bay. I didn’t get to photograph them, as I’m not the fastest in the early mornings, and the cameras were still inside, but it was very nice to see these rare shy creatures.  
It was time to move on, as Kev had invited his brother Jules, to join us on the leg from Mahajanga to Nosy Be. He was due soon so we needed to get going to be there in time to meet him. We sailed from Baly Bay to Nosy Makamby.
At 9am we lifted anchor and expected to motor as the forecast was flat seas and 4 knots of wind. But at 12 pm we got 14 knots of wind from the side (port beam), we had the screecher up and the mainsail, so we were able to go alot faster than expected.
We must have been on the main dow highway up and down the coast, as we passed plenty of them at close range.  Every dow that passes waves like crazy, and they pass at really close range. Its like you are about to have a head on collision, and then they just breeze alongside you. Boats pass each other port to port (so left of our boat passes his boats left). These guys are remarkable sailors, their sail configuration is amazing to see and they use, even the slightest bit of wind to get going.
The route is lined with red sandstone cliffs and the soil erosion is extremely bad with the red sand spilling into the sea turning it to a deep reddish brown colour. At each river mouth the red water extends for miles into the sea.
As always the fishing lines were out and Kev caught a queen fish, which I thought was too small to keep, and he didn’t. We have an ongoing argument about every fish that gets caught, whether to keep it or not? I will find any excuse to save the fish. To small, too big, to pretty, to gamey, to slimy, not enough freezer space etc etc.  Anyhow, I lost the argument and the fish was caught just as we were just coming in to anchor, and Kev needed to steer Catatude, while I did anchor duty. He placed the fish in the tender, and would attend to cleaning it after we had anchored.
The anchorage at Nosy Makamby is rather tricky as there are bommies (Coral heads) at one end and reef at the other end, and the charts are off, so you sort of have to make a calculated guess as to which path to take to best avoid them, and to ensure that if you swing on your anchor you do not swing over them.
We anchored in 8m of sand in what turned out to be a fantastic anchorage and island.
Firmly anchored and secure for the evening ahead, we sat down to have dinner when I noticed that Landy’s one pontoon was semi deflated!  Oh no, she was only 8 weeks old. Had we bought a dud? On further investigation, which is not easy I might add, (you can’t submerse her to find the bubbles) we found the leak. You going to love this Zanna : The fish, Kev threw into the tender, bit a hole in the tender! While Kev was avoiding the bommies the fish sank a row of fine teeth into the tender, and made a row of perfectly straight holes 3cms long!
Ha ha ha, I found it hilarious that we had a deflated tender because a fish had bitten a hole in the pontoon. I laughed and laughed. It was very funny, for me and we didn’t even have a patch kit because we left with a tinny. Anyway, I had Lexy, and I would never allow anything like that to happen to her, especially not have her tainted with a slimy fish, never mind one with big teeth!
Kev, managed to fix her with marine silicone, until we get to where we can purchase a patch kit. I just hope the guy doesn’t ask him how he got a hole in his tender!
It was a hot 34 degrees on Sunday and we explored the Island, went up the mountain and spent the day swimming, cruising the crystal clear reef with Lexy and having sundowners on the uninhabited beach. There is a ‘hole in the wall’ just like at coffee Bay, beautiful beaches and lots of shells and driftwood.
At night there was some night fishing done by the locals in their pirogues in the distance.
This is a really nice anchor spot. Well protected and lots to see and do.
Tomorrow we leave the Barren Islands and head to Mahajanga to clear into the country.
Missing you all
Lotsa luv
L
                                         to next newsletter . . . .

 

 

All right reserved, Catatude 2017 ©